Where does one start when writing about Croatia? The culture? The food? The incomparable scenery? All of those and more? Croatia truly is a traveller's delight. Whilst being quite a tourist hotspot, it doesn't even come close to losing itself amongst the sun chasers and Game of Thrones enthusiasts - quite the opposite - it holds tightly to all that is Mediterranean whilst also embracing its Balkan culture and identity, creating an elegant hybrid of the two that is beautifully and uniquely Croatian.
I visited Croatia in early April, which is an excellent time to go as you still reap all of the benefits of warm weather whilst avoiding the height of tourist season. My return flight from Stansted to Zadar was £68 with Ryanair, and I stayed in Downtown Boutique Hostel, where £48 for 4 nights felt like an absolute steal. It's definitely one of the best hostels I've had the pleasure of staying in - the bunk beds in the dorms are not only comfortable but they aren't the squeaky, mildly unstable contraptions you find in most hostels, (we're talking actual mini staircases up to the top bunks!), and the storage available was more than enough for the amount of people staying in the room. The bathrooms were also delightfully non-hostel-like in that they were some of the cleanest I've seen. However, the real stars here are the staff. To my eternal mortification, I somehow managed to lose my phone down the one tiny gap between the bed and the wall at 5:30 in the morning on the day I was supposed to go to the Plitvice Lakes. I was freaking out - never have I prayed so hard for something to teleport into my hand - but the lady at reception was absolutely amazing. She was so reassuring, encouraged me to have a great day at the lakes and promised that by the time I returned, they would have rescued my phone for me. Not only that, but she lent me her personal phone to leave my parents a message so they knew I wouldn't be checking in during the day and then drew me a map to the meeting point for the Plitvice tour. Outstanding kindness. Safe to say that if I ever go back to Zadar I know where I'll be staying.
Zadar
When I was choosing where to go for this trip, I picked Zadar because, essentially, the flight was cheap and it was a place with warm weather that I hadn't visited before. What I wasn't expecting was to fall head over heels in love with it. The old town is a labyrinth of pretty, cobbled streets with restaurants around practically every corner, and almost everywhere you look you will see something that reminds you of its rich heritage.
Originally a Roman settlement, Zadar sits just above the halfway point on the mainland's coast, with the Dinaric Alps to the east and Kornati Islands National Park to the west. One thing I always make sure to do in a new city is a walking tour, and I was thoroughly impressed with Free Spirit Tours. Our guide was incredibly engaging and within the allotted hour and a half, he not only gave us a thorough history, but also some great suggestions on where to eat, drink, swim, explore, and places to go on day trips using Zadar as a base. We saw all of the main sights around the Old Town, and it ended at Queen Jelena Madijevka Park above the Land Gate, which has a beautiful view of a small marina and over to Dugi Otok.
If there's one experience you absolutely need to have in Zadar it's this: sitting with a view of the water and listening to the sea organ whilst watching the sunset. The sea organ is one of Zadar's main attractions; the water flows into a set of pipes laid under the boulevard, which pushes the air out of a row of small holes cut into the pavement and produces an organ-like sound. It's not melodic at all - the closest comparison I can think of is whale sounds - but in my opinion, it is genuinely quite nice to listen to. Also, I imagine you've already seen some beautiful sunsets in your life but have you ever seen half of the colour wheel on a single horizon?
The other bit you can't miss is the Greeting to the Sun, a solar-powered light show that comes on after sunset. Located only a few metres from the sea organ, it's the perfect sequel to your sunset-watching session.
History will play a big part in any visit to Zadar, from the Roman Forum to St Donatus Church and the medieval bell tower to the 16th-century Five Wells Square. There are a couple of museums to visit including the Zadar City Museum and the Museum of Ancient Glass, but if there's one you absolutely should not miss out on is the Archaeological Museum. Having studied Ancient History at university, I can't say that the history of Dalmatia featured heavily in our module choices or content, and so it was really great to be able to gain insight into the region's past, both Roman and otherwise. There are artefacts from the pre-Roman period right up to things from the Medieval period, and all of it is incredibly interesting. Entry is 5€ and you could easily spend 1-2 hours there, depending on how much information you feel like reading!
If I were to go back, I would...
Visit more of the natural attractions in the area such as Krka National Park and the Kornati Islands National Park, which are very accessible from Zadar.
Plitvice Lakes
One of Croatia's most famous sites is the Plitvice Lakes, or Plitvička Jezera National Park, which contains some of the most phenomenally beautiful lakes and waterfalls in the world. This is one of Croatia's biggest attractions, and so you'll be able to find tours going from pretty much wherever you are on the mainland. Zadar is definitely a good base to start from, as it only takes about 2 hours on a coach, or you can rent a car which is also a popular way of getting there. I booked this trip with Jadera Booking, and if you're also on a budget and are happy to have more of a self-guided walk around the lakes then I'd recommend using them. The ticket doesn't include entrance to the park (this is usually around 10€ depending on the season), but it does cover all of your transport, skip-the-line access when buying the entrance tickets, and you can also store luggage in their offices if you need to. They were very communicative before the trip, and they do also take you to a roadside service station on the way there in case you need to use the toilet or buy food before arriving. It's worth noting that you will need to bring your own food and plenty of water - there is a café or two inside the park but you do have to walk a fair way to get to them, and there will probably be a fairly long queue at lunchtime so it's worth bringing your own.
The park has 2 entrances, each with different lengths of walk to choose from starting at that entrance. If you want to do both the lower and upper lakes and are up for a more active day, then routes C, H, and K will all take you around these. C and H will take roughly 4-6 hours each, while K is longer and a bit more difficult, taking around 6-8 hours. However, there are some shorter routes available: routes A, B, E, and F will each take you somewhere between 2-4 hours. It's worth noting that of those shorter routes, A, B, and F (not E) will all take you past Veilki Slap, the 'big waterfall', which is definitely not one to miss. I did route C, which was medium difficulty and took me about 5 hours including a lunch stop and another short break later on.
Plitvička Jezera really is a stunning place. The water is so clear and the most amazing colour of turquoise in every lake you pass, and the waterfalls are just beautiful. Every entrance ticket includes passes for the boat and land train (keep hold of these as you'll need to show them to the service operators and don't tear them off the main ticket), which are both essential to walking routes C, F, and H, and the boat ride offers some really phenomenal views. From the moment you step into the park, it's easy to see why this is such a popular place to go in Croatia, and that feeling only grows as you continue exploring - it really is that beautiful.
If I were to go back, I would...
Stay longer! There is plenty of accommodation in the surrounding area, and I'd love to rent a car and stay for a couple of days. I'd like to try splitting the day into two of the shorter routes, or doing the whole of route K.
Split
Split's old town is located almost entirely within the walls of what used to be the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian, who ruled from 284-305 BC. To say I was excited to visit would be an understatement. I took a day trip from Zadar which is about 2 hours by coach and at just over £30 for a return trip, it's pretty affordable too.
The first thing I did on arrival was walk the Riva, Split's promenade, which was practically glittering in the Sunday morning sunlight next to the gorgeous blue of the Adriatic. I was fortunate enough to be there the same day as the Riva Market, which included some great local vendors selling food, drinks, crafts, souvenirs, and jewellery. Sat on a bench in the sunshine, looking at the sea with some sugared fritule - safe to say I was in my element.
For the Game of Thrones fans among you, the show's museum is a good place to visit. They have several props and costumes, as well as re-creations of the main sites in Westeros and information on all of the major Croatian filming locations. It's not massive, I didn't spend more than half an hour in there, but it's a nice addition to your trip if you're a fan of the show. Pro-tip: Google says it's closed on Sundays but that's not true! I did look before I went and was a little disappointed that it wouldn't be open when I was there but fortunately, I came across it as I was exploring and it was very much open.
One activity in Split which I can wholeheartedly recommend is the Diocletian's Dream Virtual Reality Experience. As a classicist, I was beside myself with excitement, and for 13€ it would honestly have been rude not to. I have absolutely nothing bad to say about this experience. From the moment you put the goggles on you are transported 1,700 years into the past, and you don't need to do anything except sit back and let yourself be led around this incredibly realistic re-creation of Diocletian's Palace and the people who worked and lived inside the complex. The view is 360 degrees, so whichever direction you look you see a different piece of the virtual puzzle, and it's honestly phenomenal.
As I said before, I rarely visit a new city without booking a walking tour, and Split was no exception. I have to say I wasn't as impressed by this one as much as I was with the Zadar tour, but then again I was already incredibly tired by the time the tour started, and it did take about 1 hour 30 minutes. I booked with the Split Walking Tour company through TripAdvisor, which was 15€, and I can recommend them for a highly informative and interesting tour which does show you most, if not all of the points of interest within the Old Town. You do have to keep up - the Old Town has so many narrow streets and back alleys which means you don't want to lose the group but for the most part, we were given ample time to observe our surroundings and take photos.
Definite spots not to miss within the ancient palace complex are the Peristyle (middle photo below), The Golden Gate and Gregory of Nin statue, and the cellars (also a GoT filming location). The black granite sphinx which sits in the Peristyle is 3,500 years old, and it is thought to have been brought by Diocletian to Split from the tomb of Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose III!
If I were to go back, I would...
Go on an excursion to Klis Fortress, an ancient stronghold up in the mountains behind Split, and another Game of Thrones filming location!
Tips for visiting Croatia
Take some time to learn about the history while you're there. Croatia has a complicated history and has endured much, but it's absolutely fascinating and exploring it offers a pretty good insight into the country as it is today. Walking tours are great ways to do this, and they're usually a very cheap way to get to know a place and its heritage.
Try all the Croatian food you can. It's fresh, it's hearty, and oh my, it's absolutely delicious. Some of my favourite dishes were: crni rižot - black cuttlefish or squid ink risotto; fritule - fried doughnut balls served with icing sugar or melted chocolate; pašticada - beef slow cooked in a sweet and sour sauce, often served with gnocchi; ćevapi - beef and lamb mince sausages served in a flatbread with ajvar (a sauce made with red peppers) and usually onions. Also not to miss are Croatian wines such as teran and pošip; the gelato (you're very close to Italy, after all), burek and of course, the seafood.
Most Croatians speak pretty good English but as always, it's polite to learn at least a few basic phrases. Zdravo (hello), hvala (thank you) and molim (please) will all help you make a great impression.
Take it slow. The pace of life in Croatia, at least from what I saw, is not especially fast. Take some time to slow down, enjoy the sunshine, find those corners to sit in with traditional music being played nearby, admire the sea/landscape/architecture and be intentional about noticing the small details of your surroundings. One of my favourite memories from my time in Zadar was being sat at the café by the sea organ with an Ožujsko Limun whilst reading my book. Pure bliss.
Check the season. Many tourist-based businesses such as tour companies, and even some restaurants will only operate from April-October. The hostel I stayed in, although the rooms were available, was only just reopening its bar and café for the tourist season when I arrived in early April, and the walking tour guides in both Split and Zadar mentioned it was their first tour back after winter. The beginning and end of a tourist season are generally good times to visit somewhere as you can often avoid the crowds, however it's always worth checking that the things you want to do are available at that time.
If I were to go back, I would...
Go to some of the islands. Croatia has over 1,000 islands, and from what I hear the beauty of mainland coastal Croatia more than extends when you reach them: more stunning scenery, more beautiful cities, more amazing food to try. There are also plenty of sea caves to explore around the islands, most famously the Bisevo Blue Cave.
Explore more cities. Dubrovnik and Zagreb are obviously pretty high on the list, but there are plenty of others too with their own reasons to be explored: Pula, Rovinj, Rijeka, Trogir; the list goes on!
Do a food tour. I massively enjoyed Croatian food, and cities like Split and Dubrovnik are brilliant places to sample the best of what the country has to offer: seafood, pastry treats like burek, red meat dishes such as pašticada and lamb peka, and a variety of delicious Croatian wines.
Croatia really is a gem within the Balkans, and I'm so grateful I got the chance to explore it. It really is an intensely beautiful country for so many reasons, and I hope this has inspired you to explore its every corner. Happy travelling, prijatelji!
Thank you for reading! If you have any questions or if you'd like to guest-write for The Classicist with an Atlas then I'd love to hear from you - you can get in touch via the form on the Contact page or on Instagram @theclassicistwithanatlas.
None of the links in this post are affiliate links or part of paid advertisements.
ความคิดเห็น